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Local behaviour of tsunamis

  • Part II — Tsunami Generation and Propagation
  • Conference paper
  • First Online:
Waves on Water of Variable Depth

Part of the book series: Lecture Notes in Physics ((LNP,volume 64))

Abstract

Scale parameters of large tsunamis suggest that non-linearity of waves is important only within a short distance of about a half wavelength from the shoreline.The Carrier-Greenspan transformation of the non-linear shallow-water equations on a uniformly sloping beach is elucidated to give a set of linear equations analogous to the linearized equations of the original non-linear equations, and an explicit form of the wave-breaking criterion is given.Although a weak bore (or an undular bore) may be formed close to shore if the head wave of a tsunami is a positive wave, there may be no bore formation at all if the negative wave forms the front.The maximum run-up of a tsunami is caused mostly by the non-breaking wave enhanced by the effect of bay resonance.

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Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Earthquake Research Institute, University of Tokyo, Bunkyo-ku, 113, Tokyo, Japan

    Kinjiro Kajiura

Authors
  1. Kinjiro Kajiura
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Editor information

D. G. Provis R. Radok

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© 1977 Springer-Verlag

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Kajiura, K. (1977). Local behaviour of tsunamis. In: Provis, D.G., Radok, R. (eds) Waves on Water of Variable Depth. Lecture Notes in Physics, vol 64. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/3540082530_137

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/3540082530_137

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  • Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-540-08253-8

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-540-37349-0

  • eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive

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