Abstract
Wave-induced velocities are the primary driving force for littoral sand transport. For this reason, a major component of the NSTS program was to measure wave associated velocity and elevation fluctuations. A description of the shoaling wave transformation is a necessary ingredient in the development of any sediment transport model.
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© 1989 Springer Science+Business Media New York
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Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T. (1989). Wind Wave Transformation. In: Seymour, R.J. (eds) Nearshore Sediment Transport. Springer, Boston, MA. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4899-2531-2_19
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4899-2531-2_19
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