Abstract
Instantaneous, full-field velocity measurements under the crest of a laboratory generated breaking wave are presented and compared with a fully non-linear time-stepping numerical model. A plunging breaker is generated, on constant water depth, using the numerical model, then reproduced in a wave flume by matching wave amplitude timeseries at a position just before the breaking. The generation of the waves is achieved by means of a computer controlled wave paddle and measurements of the flow made with a full-field photographic technique (PIV). The photographic records of the flow are analysed on an automatic rig and the measurements are shown to compare well with the numerical calculations.
This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Preview
Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.
References
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and Cokelet, E.D. (1976) The Deformation of Steep Surface Waves in Water. A Numerical Method of Computation. Proc. Royal Soc. London, A. 350, 126.
Dold, J.W. and Peregrine, D. P. (1986) Numerical Methods for Fluid Dynamics II. Authors Morton, K.W. and Baines, M.J. Oxford University Press, 671–679.
Dommermuth, D.G., Yue, D.K.P., Lin, W.M., Rapp, R.J., Chan, E.S. and Melville, W.K. (1988) Deep-water Plunging breakers: a comparison between potential theory and experiments. J. Fluid Mech., 189, 423–442.
Van Dorn, W.G. and Pazan, S.E. (1975) Laboratory Investigation of Wave Breaking, Part 2, Deep Water Waves. Research Report, Advanced Ocean Engineering Laboratory, Scripps Institute of Oceanography, University of California, San Diego, S10 Ref. No. 75-21, AOFL Report £71.
Kjeldsen, S.P., Vinge R. and Brevig, P. (1980) Kinematics of Deep Water Breaking Waves. Proc. 12th Annual Offshore Technology Conference, Texas, 317–325.
Easson, W.J. and Greated, C.A. (1984) Breaking Wave Forces and Velocity Fields. Coastal Engineering, 8, 233–241.
Easson, W.J. (1987) Velocity and Force Measurement in the Splash Zone. J. of Strain, Feb, 15–18.
Gray, C. Greated, C.A. and Fancy, N.A. (1987) The Application of PIV to Measurements Under Waves. 2nd Int. Conf. on Laser Anemometry, Strathclyde.
Gray, C. and Greated, C.A. (1988) The Application of PIV to the Study of Water Waves. Optic and Lasers in Engineering, 9.
Salter S.H. (1982) Absorbing Wave Makers and Wide Tanks. Proc. Conf. Directional Wave Spectra Applications, ASCE, 185–200.
Kjeldsen, S.P. (1982) 2 and 3 Dimensional Deterministic Freak Waves. Norwegian Hydrodynamic Laboratories Report, 1983.
Greenhow, M., Vinje, T., Brevig, P. and Tanylor, J. A theoretical and experimental study of the capsize of Salter’s Duck in extreme waves. J. Fluid Mech., 118, 221–239.
Hyun, J.S. (1976) Theory for Hinged Wavemakers of Finite Draft in Water of Constant Depth.
Lourenco, L. (1986) Theory and Application of Particle Image Displacement Velocimetry. in Lecture Series 1986 - 09, Von Karman Inst, of Fluid Dynamics, Brussels.
Sharpe, J.P., Gray, C., Greated, C.A. and Campbell, M. (1989) Measurements of Acoustic Streaming using PIV. Acoustica.
McCluskey, D.R., Easson, W.J., Greated, C.A. and Glass D. (1989) Use of Particle Image Velocimetry to Study Roping in Pneumatic Conveyence. 4th European Symposium in Particle Characterisation, Nuremberg, W. Germany.
Gray, C. and Greated, C.A. (1988) A Scanning Beam System for the Two Dimensional Illumination of Flow Fields. Von Karman Inst, of Fluid Dynamics, Belgium.
Sinha, S.K. (1988) Improving the Accuracy and Resolution of Particle Image or Laser Speckle Velocimetry. Experiments in Fluids, 6, 67–68.
Burch, J.M. and Tokaxski, J.M.J. (1968) Production of Multiple Beam Fringes from Photographic Scatters. Optica Acta, Vol 15, No. 2, 101–11.
Robinson, D.W. (1983) Automatic Fringe Analysis with a Computer Image Processing System. Applied Optics, 22, 2169–2176.
Moraitis, C.S., Buchlin, J.M. and Reithmuller, M.L. (1987) Improved Autocorrelation Analysis of Fringe Images for Laser Speckle Velocimetry. ICIASF June 22–25, 1987.
Huntley, J.M. (1986) An Image Processing System for the Analysis of Speckle Photographs. J. Physics. E. Sci. Intrum., 19.
Bracewell, R. N. (1986) The Fourier Transform and its Applications. McGraw-Hill.
Pickering, C.J.D. and Halliwell, N.A. (1985) Particle Image Velocimetry: Fringe Visibility and Pedestal Removal. Applied Optics, Vol 24, No. 6, 2474–2476
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 1990 Kluwer Academic Publisher
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Skyner, D.J., Gray, C., Greated, C.A. (1990). A Comparison of Time-Stepping Numerical Predictions with Whole-Field Flow Measurement in Breaking Waves. In: Tørum, A., Gudmestad, O.T. (eds) Water Wave Kinematics. NATO ASI Series, vol 178. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_31
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_31
Publisher Name: Springer, Dordrecht
Print ISBN: 978-94-010-6725-6
Online ISBN: 978-94-009-0531-3
eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive