Abstract
The cosmetic industry is a high-valued and evergreen multibillion dollar industry with more specialized and advanced products adding up every year. The major product categories in the cosmetic industry are skin care, hair care, perfumes, deodorants, toiletries, and make-up. Of these, skin care products top the list, accounting around 36 % of the global cosmetic market. Natural products, a treasure of medicinally active compounds are used for treating various skin ailments, infections, inflammation and as a protectant of UV irradiation and pollution. The hybrid of cosmetic and pharmaceutical compounds, known as cosmeceuticals, possesses therapeutic as well as beautification potential based on its key ingredients. Natural products are well regarded as a rich source of cosmeceuticals. Different classes of natural compounds originating from animal, plant, and marine algal sources are placed under the category of high-valued cosmetic ingredients. The extraction of fatty acid components from botanicals and other natural sources opens up a big market in the cosmetic industry. The present chapter introduces the recent advancement and strategies followed in the cosmeceutical industry, and the role of plant tissue culture in enhancing the production of pharmaceutically valued natural products along with the current regulatory policies.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
References
Abbasi AM, Khan MA, Ahmad M, Zafar M, Jahan S, Sultana S (2010) Ethnopharmacological application of medicinal plants to cure skin diseases and in folk cosmetics among the tribal communities of North-West Frontier Province Pakistan. J Ethnopharmacol 128:322–335
Almagro L, Belchi-Navarro S, Sabater-Jara S, Vera-Urbina JC, Selles-Marchart S, Bru R, Pedreno MA (2013) Bioproduction of trans -resveratrol from grapevine cell cultures. In: Ramawat KG, Mérillon JM (eds) Handbook of natural products. Springer, Berlin/Heidelberg, pp 1683–1713
Ananga A, Georgiev V, Ochieng J, Phills B, Tsolova V (2013) Production of anthocyanins in grape cell cultures: a potential source of raw material for pharmaceutical, food, and cosmetic industries, the mediterranean genetic code barbara sladonja. Intech Open. https://doi.org/10.5772/54592
Anthonavage MMS, Saliou C, Tucker-Samaras S, Zedayko T (2011) Clinical benefits of topical application of Artemisia abrotanum L. (southern wood) on photo-damaged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 64:22
Aranaz I, Acosta N, Civera C, Elorza B, Mingo J, Castro C, Gandia MDL, Caballero AH (2018) Cosmetics and cosmeceutical applications of chitin, chitosan and their derivatives. Polymers 10:213
Archana G, Sabina K, Babuskin S, Radhakrishnan K, Fayidh MA, Babu AS, Sivarajan M, Sukumar M (2013) Preparation and characterization of mucilage polysaccharide for biomedical applications. Carbohydr Polym 98:89–94
Ash M, Ash I (2007) In: Ash M (ed) Handbook of fillers, extenders, and diluents. Synapse Information resources, New York, pp 238–249
Asia Personal Care and Cosmetics Market Guide (2016) U.S. Commercial Service and Industry & Analysis (I&A). www.trade.gov/industry/materials/AsiaCosmetics MarketGuide.pdf; Accessed 18 Sept 2018
Aziz AA, Taher ZM, Muda R, Aziz R (2017) Cosmeceuticals and natural cosmetics. In: Hasham R (ed) Recent trends in research into Malaysian medicinal plants research. Penerbit UTM Press, Malaysia, pp 126–175
Bakkali F, Averbeck S, Averbeck D, Idaomar M (2008) Biological effects of essential oils-A review. Food Chem Toxicol 46:446–475
Banka N, Bunagan MJ, Shapiro J (2013) Pattern hair loss in men: diagnosis and medical treatment. Dermatol Clin 31:129–140
Bansal M, Manchanda K, Pandey SS (2012) Role of caffeine in the management of androgenetic alopecia. Int J Trichology 4:185–186
Barbulova A, Tito A, Carola A, Bimonte M, de Laurentis F, D’Ambrosio P, Apone F, Colucci G, Monoli I, Cucchiara M, Hill J (2010) Raspberry stem cell extract to protect skin from inflammation and oxidative stress. Cosmet Toilets 125:38–47
Bijauliya RK, Alok S, Kumar M, Chanchal DK, Yadav S (2017) A comprehensive review on herbal cosmetics. Int’l J Pharm Sci Res 8:4930–4949
Birtić S, Dussort P, Pierre F-X, Bily AC, Roller M (2015) Carnosic acid. Phytochemistry 115:9–19
Blum P, Schurch C, Schmid D, Zuli F (2013) Cosmetic preparation and method for preparing the same. US Patent No. US8580320B2
Botla KMCVS, Rao UM, Rao KS (2013) Commercial importance of marine micro algae. Seaweed Res Utiln 35:118–128
Bowe WP, Pugliese S (2014) Cosmetic benefits of natural ingredients. J Drugs Dermatol 13:1021–1025
Burke KE (2015) Anti aging regimens. In: Draelos ZD (ed) Cosmetic dermatology- products and procedures, 2nd edn. Wiley Blackwell, Oxford, pp 492–500
Calabrese V, Scapagini G, Catalano C, Dinotta F, Geraci D, Morganti P (2000) Biochemical studies of a natural antioxidant isolated from rosemary and its application in cosmetic dermatology. Int J Tissue React 22:5–13
Carrier DR, Deban SM, Otterstrom J (2002) The face that sank the Essex: potential function of the spermaceti organ in aggression. J Exp Biol 205:1755–1763
Castelo-Soccio LA (2012) Hair manifestations of systemic disease. Curr Probl Pediatr Adolesc Health Care 42:198–203
Chao LK, Hua KF, Hsu HY, Cheng SS, Lin IF, Chen CJ, Chen ST, Chang ST (2008) Cinnamaldehyde inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokine secretion from monocytes macrophages through suppression of intracellular signaling. Food Chem Toxicol 46:220–231
Chen W, Viljoen AM (2010) Geraniol-A review of a commercially important fragrance material. South Afr J Bot 76:643–651
Chermahini SH, Majid FAA, Sarmidi MR (2011) Cosmeceutical value of herbal extracts as natural ingredients and novel technologies in anti-aging. J Med Plant Res 5:3074–3077
Chon SH, Tannahill R, Yao X, Southall MD, Pappas A (2015) Keratinocyte differentiation and upregulation of ceramide synthesis induced by an oat lipid extract via the activation of PPAR pathways. Exp Dermatol 24:290–295
Corinaldesi C, Barone G, Marcellini F, Anno AD, Danovaro R (2017) Marine microbial derived molecules and their potential use in cosmeceutical and cosmetic products. Mar Drugs 15:118
Cormier F, Brion F, Do CB, Moresoli C (1996) Development of process strategies for anthocyanin-based food colorant production using Vitis vinifera cell cultures. In: DiCosmo F, Misawa M (eds) Plant cell culture secondary metabolism toward industrial application. CRC Press LLC, Boca Raton, pp 167–186
Cornaghi L, Arnaboldi F, Calo R, Landoni F, Baruffaldi PWF, Marabini L, Donetti E (2016) Effects of UV rays and thymol/Thymus vulgaris L. extract in an ex vivo human skin model: morphological and genotoxicological assessment. Cells Tissues Organs 201:180–192
Cui HY, Baque MA, Lee EJ, Paek KY (2013) Scale-up of adventitious root cultures of Echinacea angustifolia in a pilot-scale bioreactor for the production of biomass and caffeic acid derivatives. Plant Biotechnol Rep 7:297–308
Cui XH, Murthy HN, Paek KY (2014) Production of adventitious root biomass and bioactive compounds from Hypericum perforatum L. though large scale bioreactor cultures. In: Paek KY, Murthy HN, Zhong JJ (eds) Production of biomass and bioactive compounds using bioreactor technology. Springer, Dordrecht, pp 251–284
Deshmukh SS, Katare YS, Shyale SS, Bhujbal SS, Kadam SD, Landge DA, Shah DV, Pawar JB (2013) Isolation and evaluation of mucilage of Adansonia digitata Linn. as a suspending agent. J Pharm 2013:379750. https://doi.org/10.1155/2013/379750
Deters AM, Lengsfeld C, Hensel A (2005) Oligo and polysaccharides exhibit a structure-dependent bioactivity on human keratinocytes in vitro. J Ethnopharmacol 102:391–399
Donnez D, Jeandet P, Clement C, Courot E (2009) Bioproduction of resveratrol and stilbene derivatives by plant cells and microorganisms. Trends Biotechnol 27:706–713
Dureja H, Kaushik D, Gupta M, Kumar V, Lather V (2005) Cosmeceuticals: an emerging concept. Indian J Pharmacol 37:155–159
Ediriweera ERHSS, Premarathna NYS (2012) Medicinal and cosmetic uses of bee’s honey- a review. Ayu 33:178–182
El Meskaoui A (2013) Plant cell tissue and organ culture biotechnology and its application in medicinal and aromatic plants. Med Aromat Plants 2:147
El-Bashier ZM, Fouad MA (2002) A preliminary pilot study on head lice pediculosis in Shakaria Governorate and treatment of lice with natural plant products. J Egypt Soc Parasitol 32:725–776
Elias PM, Friend DS (1975) The permeability barrier in mammalian epidermis. J Cell Biol 65:180–191
F’guyer S, Afaq F, Mukhtar H (2003) Photochemoprevention of skin cancer by botanical agents. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 19:56–72
Fan DL, Zhao WJ, Wang YX, Han SY, Guo S (2012) Oxymatrine inhibits collagen synthesis in keloid fibroblasts via inhibition of transforming growth factor-β1/Smad signaling pathway. Int J Dermatol 51:463–472
Farris PK (2010) Natural ingredients and their applications in dermatology. In: Kinnie PA (ed) Practical dermatology. Rick Ehrlich, New York, pp 51–54
Feng S, Luo Z, Tao B, Chen C (2015) Ultrasonic-assisted extraction and purification of phenolic compounds from sugarcanes (Saccharum officinarum L.) rinds. Food Sci Technol-LEB 60:970–976
Fischer TW, Hipler UC, Elsner P (2007) Effect of caffeine and testosterone on the proliferation of human hair follicles in vitro. Int J Dermatol 46:27–35
Fischer R, Vasilev N, Twyman RM, Schillberg S (2015) High-value products from plants: the challenges of process optimization. Curr Opin Biotechnol 32:156–162
Fujita Y, Tabata M (1986) Secondary metabolites from plant cells. In: Proceedings of 6th international congress of plant tissue and cell culture. IAPTC, Minneapolis
Furukawa H, Hayashi A, Limura T (2012) Copolymer having carbosiloxane dendrimer structure and hydrophilic group. US Patent No. US9670301B2
Ganesan P, Choi D (2016) Current application of phytocompound-based nanocosmeceuticals for beauty and skin therapy. Int J Nanomedicine 11:1987–2007
Gao SL, Zhu DN, Cai ZH, Jiang Y, Xu DR (2004) Organ culture of a precious Chinese medicinal plant – Fritillaria unibracteata. Plant Cell Tissue Organ Cult 59:197–201
Geetha RV, Roy A (2012) In vitro evaluation of antibacterial activity of ethanolic root extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra on oral microbes. Int’l J Drug Dev 4:161–165
Georgiev MI, Weber J, Maciuk A (2009) Bioprocessing of plant cell cultures for mass production of targeted compounds. Appl Microbiol Biotechnol 83:809–823
Giri A, Narasu MJ (2000) Transgenic hairy roots: recent trends and applications. Biotechnol Adv 18:1–22
Global Cosmeceutical Market 2017–2021 (2016). www.technavio.com/report/global-cosmetics-and-toiletry-global-cosmeceuticals-market-2017-2021; Accessed 18 Sept 2018
Golubovic-Liakopoulos N, Simon SR, Shah B (2011) Nanotechnology use with cosmeceuticals. Semin Cutan Med Surg 30:176–180
Green BA (2014) Cosmeceutical uses and benefits of alpha, poly and bionic hydroxy acids. In: Farris PK (ed) Cosmeceuticals and cosmetic practice. Wiley, London, pp 69–80
Green BA, Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ (2016) Clinical use of hydroxyl acids. In: Draelos ZD (ed) Cosmetic dermatology- Products and procedures, 2nd edn. Wiley Blackwell, London, pp 346–356
Guillon S, Trémouillaux-Guiller J, Pati PK, Rideau M, Gantet P (2006a) Hairy root research: recent scenario and exciting prospects. Curr Opin Plant Biol 9:341–346
Guillon S, Tremouillaux-Guiller J, Pati PK, Rideau M, Gantet P (2006b) Harnessing the potential of hairy roots: dawn of a new era. Trends Biotechnol 24:403–409
Gülseren I, Corredig M (2013) Storage stability and physical characteristics of tea-polyphenol-bearing nanoliposomes prepared with milk fat globule membrane phospholipids. J Agric Food Chem 61:3242–3251
Guo S, Ge Y, Jom KN (2017) A review of phytochemistry, metabolite changes, and medicinal uses of the common sunflower seed and sprouts (Helianthus annuus L.). Chem Cent J 11:95
Haberlandt G (1902) Culturversuche mit isolierten Pflanzenzellen. Sitzungsberichte Math. Naturw KI Kais Akad Wiss Wien 111:69–92
Haghbeen K (2006) Lithospermum officinale callus produces shikalin. Bologia 61:463–467
Hamman HJ (2008) Composition and applications of Aloe vera leaf gel. Molecules 13:1599–1616
Han SB, Kwon SS, Jeong YM, Yu ER, Park SN (2014) Physical characterization and in vitro skin permeation of solid lipid nanoparticles for transdermal delivery of quercetin. Int J Cosmet Sci 36:588–597
Hao JP, Guan Q (2012) Synthesis of saikosaponins in adventitious roots of Bupleurum chinense by semi-continuous culture. Plant Cell Tissue Organ Cult 108:159–165
Herman A, Herman AP (2016) Mechanism of action of herbs and their active constituents used in hair loss treatment. Fitotherapia 114:18–25
Ho D, Jaqdeo J, Waldorf HA (2016) Is there a role for arnica and bromelain in prevention of post-procedure ecchymosis or edema: a systematic review of the literature. Dermatol Surg 42:445–463
Huber C, Christopher E (1977) Keratolytic effect of salicylic acid. Arch Dermatol Res 257:293–298
Hussain MS, Fareed S, Ansari S, Rahman MA, Ahmad IZ, Saeed M (2012) Current approaches toward production of secondary plant metabolites. J Pharm Bioallied Sci 4:10–20
Hwang E, Park SY, Yin CS, Kim HT, Kim YM, Yi TH (2017) Antiaging effects of the mixture of Panax ginseng and Crataegus pinnatifida in human dermal fibroblasts and healthy human skin. J Ginseng Res 41:69–77
Idris ED, Khalid N, Ibrahim H, Annuar MSM (2007) Production of Zerumbone from in vitro derived rhizome of Zingiber zerumbet for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industry. In: 12th biological sciences graduate congress, 17–19th December, 2007 University of Malaya, Malaysia, p 227
Jadoon S, Karim S, Asad MHB, Akram MR, Khan AK, Malik A, Chen C, Murtaza G (2015) Anti-aging potential of phytoextract loaded–pharmaceutical creams for human skin cell longevity. Oxidative Med Cell Longev 2015:709628. https://doi.org/10.1155/2015/709628
Jain NK (2016) In: Jain MK (ed) A textbook of forensic pharmacy. Vallabh Prakashan, Delhi
Jeandet P, Vasserot Y, Chastang T, Courot E (2013) Engineering microbial cells for the biosynthesis of natural compounds of pharmaceutical significance. Biomed Res Int 2013:780145. https://doi.org/10.1155/2013/780145
Jeandet P, Clément C, Tisserant L, Crouzet J, Courot E (2016) Use of grapevine cell cultures for the production of phytostilbenes of cosmetic interest. C R Chim 19:1062–1070
Jha S (2007) Genetic transformation for production of secondary metabolites. In: Ramawat KG, Merillon JM (eds) Biotechnology, secondary metabolites-plants and microbes, 2nd edn. CRC Press/Taylor and Francis Group, Boca Raton, pp 297–332
Joshi LS, Pawar HA (2015) Herbal cosmetics and cosmeceuticals: an overview. Nat Prod Chem Res 3:170
Juliano C, Magrini GA (2018) Cosmetic functional ingredients from botanical sources for anti-pollution skincare products. Cosmetics 5:19
Juliano C, Mattana A, Usai M (2000) Composition and in vitro antimicrobial activity of the essential oil of Thymus herba-barona Loisel growing wild in Sardinia. J Essent Oil Res 12:516–552
Kapoor M, Si S (2014) Strategic analysis of cosmeceuticals with special reference to antiaging creams. Int J Business and Management Inv 3:44–52
Karuppusamy S (2009) A review on trends in production of secondary metabolites from higher plants by in vitro tissue, organ and cell cultures. J Med Plants Res 3:1222–1239
Katz LM, Dewan K, Bronaugh RL (2015) Nanotechnology in cosmetics. Food Chem Toxicol 85:127–137
Khan IA, Abourashed EA (2010) Leung’s encyclopedia of common natural ingredients. Wiley, Hoboken
Kim K (2015) Effect of ginseng and ginsenosides on melanogenesis and their mechanism of action. J Ginseng Res 39:1–6
Kim YS, Hahn EJ, Shin CY, Paek KY (2005) Effects of aeration and sparger type on growth and ginsenoside accumulation in bioreactor cultures of ginseng adventitious root (Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer). Korean J Plant Biotechnol 32:111–116
Kim J, Lee KW, Lee HJ (2011) Cocoa (Theobroma cacao) seeds and phytochemicals in human health. In: Preedy VR, Watson RR, Patel BV (eds) Nuts and seeds in health and disease prevention. Elsevier Inc, Burlington, pp 351–360
Kim E, Kim D, Yoo S, Hong YH, Han SY, Jeong S, Jeong D, Kim J, Cho JY, Park J (2018) The skin protective effects of compound K, a metabolite of ginsenoside Rb1 from Panax ginseng. J Ginseng Res 42:218–224
Kitture R, Ghosh S, More PA, Date K, Gaware S, Datar S, Chopade BA, Kale SN (2015) Curcumin-loaded, self-assembled Aloe vera template for superior antioxidant activity and trans-membrane drug release. J Nanosci Nanotechnol 15:4039–4045
Kligman AM (2000) Cosmetics- A dermatologists look to the future: promises and problems. Dermatol Clin 18:699–709
Kong SZ, Shi XG, Feng XX, Li WJ, Liu WH, Chen ZW, Xie JH, Lai XP, Zhang XJ, Su ZR (2013) Inhibitory effect of hydroxysafflor yellow A on mice skin photoaging induced by UV irradiation. Rejuvenation Res 16:404–413
Korkina LG (2007) Phenylpropanoids as naturally occurring antioxidants: from plant defence to human health. Cell Mol Biol 53:15–25
Korkina L, Mayer W, De Luca C (2017) Meristem plant cells as a sustainable source of redox actives for skin rejuvenation. Biomol Ther 7:40
Kostyuk V, Potapovich A, Albuhaydar AR, Mayer W, Luca CD, Korkina L (2018) Natural substances for prevention of skin photoaging: screening systems in the development of sunscreen and rejuvenation cosmetics. Rejuvenation Res 21:91–101
Kumar T, Chaiyasut C, Rungseevijitprapa W, Suttajit M (2011) Screening of steroid 5α-reductase inhibitory activity and total phenolic content of Thai plants. J Med Plant Res 5:1265–1271
Kumari K, Sharma PK, Gupta R (2017) Nano-Cosmeceuticals: an emerging novel trend towards dermal care. Adv Cosmetics Dermatol 3:1–12
Kwack MH, Kim MK, Kim JC, Sung YK (2010) L-ascorbic acid 2-phosphate represses the dihydrotestosterone-induced dickkopf-1 expression in human balding dermal papilla cells. Exp Dermatol 19:110–112
Kwack MH, Kang BM, Kim MK, Kim JC, Sung YK (2011) Minoxidil activates beta-catenin pathway in human dermal papilla cells: a possible explanation for its anagen prolongation effect. J Dermatol Sci 62:154–159
Lee SY, Lee CY, Eom SH, Kim YK, Park NI, Park SU (2010) Rosmarinic acid production from transformed root cultures of Nepeta cataria L. Sci Res Essays 5:1122–1126
Lee EJ, Moh SH, Paek KY (2011a) Influence of inoculum density and aeration volume on biomass and bioactive compound production in bulb-type bioreactor cultures of Eleutherococcus koreanum Nakai. Bioresour Technol 102:7165–7170
Lee Y, Lee DE, Lee HS, Kim SK, Lee WS, Kim SH, Kim MW (2011b) Influence of auxins, cytokinins, and nitrogen on production of rutin from callus and adventitious roots of the white mulberry tree (Morus alba L.). Plant Cell Tissue Organ Cult 105:9–19
Lewis W (2017) Cosmeceuticals 2017, Prime 7. https://www.prime-journal.com/cosmeceuticals-2017/; Accessed 18 May 2018
Ligade VS, Udupa N (2010) Pharmaceuticals, cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals: an overview of regulations. Career Publications, Nashik
Lohani A, Verma A, Joshi H, Yadav N, Karki N (2014) Nanotechnology based cosmeceuticals. ISRN Dermatol 2014:843687. https://doi.org/10.1155/2014/843687
Loizzo MR, Pacetti D, Lucci P, Nunez O, Menichini F, Frega NG, Tundis R (2015) Prunus persica var. platycarpa (Tabacchiera Peach): bioactive compounds and antioxidant activity of pulp, peel and seed ethanolic extracts. Plant Foods Hum Nutr 70:331–337
Lu H, Liu K (2003) Phytoliths of common grasses in the coastal environments of southeastern USA Estuarine. Coast Shelf Sci 58:587–600
Madnani N, Khan K (2013) Hair cosmetics. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol 79:654–667
Mahendranath G, Venugopalan A, Parimalan R, Giridhar P, Ravishankar GA (2011) Annatto pigment production in root cultures of Achiote (Bixa orellana L.). Plant Cell Tissue Organ Cult 106:517–522
Majeed M, Bhat B, Anand S, Sivakumar A, Paliwal P, Geetha KG (2011) Inhibition of UV-induced ROS and collagen damage by Phyllanthus emblica extract in normal human dermal fibroblasts. J Cosmet Sci 62:49–56
Milbury PE, Chen CY, Dolnikowski GG, Blumberg JB (2006) Determination of flavonoids and phenolics and their distribution in almonds. J Agric Food Chem 54:5027–5033
Miralles P, Chisvert A, Salvador A (2015) Determination of hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol by liquid chromatography for the quality control of cosmetic products based on olive extracts. J Pharm Biomed Anal 102:157–161
Misawa M (1994) Plant tissue culture: an alternative for production of useful metabolites. FAO Agric Serv Bull:1–87
Mishra AK, Krishnapriya, Ramesh NV (2017) Therapeutic uses of bees wax in ayurveda and its physico chemical analyses. Int J Res Ayurveda Pharm 8:25
Mitani H, Ryu A, Suzuki T, Yamashita M, Arakane K, Koide C (2007) Topical application of plant extracts containing xanthine derivatives can prevent UV-induced wrinkle formation in hairless mice. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 23:86–94
Morteza-Semnani K, Saeedi M, Shahnavaz B (2003) Comparison of antioxidant activity of extract from roots of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) to commercial antioxidants in 2% hydroquinone cream. J Cosmet Sci 54:551–558
Morus M, Baran M, Rost-Roszkowska M, Skotnicka-Graca U (2014) Plant stem cells as innovation in cosmetics. Acta Pol Pharm 71:701–707
Murthy HN, Lee EJ, Paek KY (2014a) Production of secondary metabolites from cell and organ cultures: strategies and approaches for biomass improvement and metabolite accumulation. Plant Cell Tissue Organ Cult 118:1–16
Murthy HN, Dandin VS, Paek KY (2014b) Tools for biotechnological production of useful phytochemicals from adventitious root cultures. Phytochem Rev 15:129–145
Naha PC, Mukherjee SP, Byrne HJ (2018) Toxicology of engineered nanoparticles: focus on poly(amidoamine) dendrimers. Int J Environ Res Public Health 15:338
Nanda S, Nanda A, Khar RK (eds) (2010) Cosmetic technology. Birla Publications, Delhi, pp 105–123
Ndiaye M, Philippe C, Mukhtar H, Ahmad N (2011) The grape antioxidant resveratrol for skin disorders: promise, prospects, and challenges. Arch Biochem Biophys 508:164–170
Neha R, Shabla M, Indi T, Evita T (2018) Efficacy of alimental components in an oral supplement for the treatment of hair fall, hair growth, skin and nail problems and role of hairvit plus in their composition upgradation. Int J Sci Res Pub 8:309–313
No YA, Kwon T, Park HM, Han HJ, Ji HJ, Huh Y, Kim BJ (2015) A hair growth-enhancing component of hydrolysate of human placenta: in vitro and in vivo assessments. J Clin Investigat Dermatol 3:5
Nohynek L, Bailey M, Tahtiharju J, Seppanen-Laakso T, Rischer H, Oksman-Caldentey H, Puupponen-Pimia R (2014) Cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus) cell culture with bioactive substances: establishment and mass propagation for industrial use. Eng Life Sci 14:667–675
Nopo-Olazabal C, Hubstenberger J, Nopo-Olazabal L, Medina-Bolivar F (2013) Antioxidant activity of selected stilbenoids and their bioproduction in hairy root cultures of muscadine grape (Vitis rotundifolia Michx.). J Agric Food Chem 61:11744–11758
Nosov AM (2012) Application of cell technologies for production of plant derived bioactive substances of plant origin. Appl Biochem Microbiol 48:609–624
Ochoa-Villarreal M, Howat S, Jang MO, Kim IS, Jin Y, Lee E, Loake JG (2015) Cambial meristematic cells: a platform for the production of plant natural products. New Biotechnol 32:581–587
Ochoa-Villarreal M, Howat S, Hong SM, Jang MO, Jin Y, Lee E, Loake JG (2016) Plant cell culture strategies for the production of natural products. BMB Rep 49:149–158
Ogawa Y, Akamatsu M, Hotta Y, Hosoda A, Tamura H (2010) Effect of essential oils, such as raspberry ketone and its derivatives, on antiandrogenic activity based on in vitro reporter gene assay. Bioorg Med Chem Lett 20:2111–2114
Oktemer T, Ipci K, Muluk NB, Cingi C (2015) A pastille combining myrrh tincture, peppermint oil and menthol to treat the upper airway. ENT Updates 5:128–131
Olaharski AJ, Rine J, Marshall BL, Babiarz J, Zhang L, Verdin E, Smith MT (2005) The flavoring agent dihydrocoumarin reverses epigenetic silencing and inhibits sirtuin deacetylases. PLoS Genet 1:e77
Olejnik A, Goscianska J, Nowak I (2012) Significance of hyaluronic acid in cosmetic industry and aesthetic medicine. Chemik 66:129–135
Olshan AM, Kohut BE, Vincent JW, Borden LC, Delgado N, Qaqish J, Sharma NC, McGuire JA (2000) Clinical effectiveness of essential oil-containing dentifrices in controlling oral malodor. Am J Dent 13:C18–C22
Oricha BS (2010) Cosmeceuticals: a review. Afr J Pharm Pharmacol 4:127–129
Park SU, Uddin MR, Xu H, Kim YK, Lee SK (2008) Biotechnological applications for rosmarinic acid production in plant. Afr J Biotechnol 7:4959–4965
Park CM, Cho WC, Song YS (2014) TOP1 and 2 polysaccharides from Taraxacum officinale inhibit NF-kB mediated inflammation and accelerate Nrf2-induced antioxidative potential through the modulation of PI3K-Akt signaling pathway in RAW264.7 cells. Food Chem Toxicol 66:56–64
Pastore S, Potapovich A, Kostyuk V, Mariani V, Lulli D, De Luca C, Korkina L (2009) Plant polyphenols effectively protect HaCaT cells from ultraviolet C-triggered necrosis and suppress inflammatory chemokine expression. Ann N Y Acad Sci 1171:305–313
Patel VR, Dumancas GG, Kasi Viswanath LC, Maples R, Subong BJ (2016) Castor oil: properties, uses, and optimization of processing parameters in commercial production. Lipid Insights 9:1–12
Patzelt A, Knorr F, Blume-Peytavi U, Sterry W, Lademann J (2008) Hair follicles, their disorders and their opportunities. Drug Discov Today Dis Mech 5:173–181
Peng HY, Lin CC, Wang HY, Shih Y, Chou ST (2014) The melanogenesis alteration effects of Achillea millefolium L. essential oil and linalyl acetate: involvement of oxidative stress and the JNK and ERK signaling pathways in melanoma cells. PLoS One 9:e95186
Phetcharat L, Wongsuphasawat K, Winther K (2015) The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture and elasticity. Clin Interv Aging 10:1849–1856
Pinelo M, Rubilar M, Sineiro J, Núñez MJ (2004) Extraction of antioxidant phenolics from almond hulls (Prunus amygdalus) and pine sawdust (Pinus pinaster). Food Chem 85:267–273
Pistelli L, Giovannini A, Ruffoni B, Bertoli A, Pistelli L (2010) Hairy root cultures for secondary metabolites production. In: Giardi MT, Rea G, Berra B (eds) Bio-farms for nutraceuticals: functional food and safety control by biosensors. Landes Bioscience and Springer Science Business Media, New York, pp 167–184
Potapovich AI, Kostyuk VA, Kostyuk TV, de Luca C, Korkina LG (2013) Effects of pre- and post-treatment with plant polyphenols on human keratinocyte responses to solar UV. Inflamm Res 62:773–780
Prajapati VD, Jani GK, Moradiya NG, Randeria NP, Nagar BJ, Naikwadi NN, Variya BC (2013) Galactomannan: a versatile biodegradable seed polysaccharide. Int J Biol Macromol 60:83–92
Prakash S, Shelke AU (2014) Role of Triphala in dentistry. J Indian Soc Periodontol 18:132–135
Prasad MN, Sanjay KR, Prasad DS, Vijay N, Kothari R, Swamy SN (2012) A review on nutritional and nutraceutical properties of sesame. J Nutr Food Sci 2:127
Raj V, Jain A, Chaudhary J (2012) Prunus armeniaca (Apricot): an overview. J Pharm Res 5:3964–3966
Ramose-Silva M, da Silva Carneiro SC (2007) Elderly skin and its rejuvenation: products and procedures for the aging skin. J Cosmet Dermatol 6:40–50
Ranouille E, Bony E, Renimel-Krolikiewicz I, Berthon J, Filaire E (2017) A Concentrated Mix of Verbascoside and Echinacoside Induces Whole Biological Photoprotection of Skin Tissue. Int Fed Soc Cosmet Chem Mag 3:155–160
Ranveer RC, Sahoo AK (2017) Bioactive constituents of kokum and its potential health benefits. Nutri Food Toxicol 1:236–244
Rao HJ (2012) Therapeutic applications of almonds (Prunus amygdalus L.): a review. J Clin Diagn Res 6:130–135
Rao SM, Ravishankar GA (2002) Plant cell cultures: chemical factories of secondary metabolities. Biotechnol Adv 20:101–153
Riangjanapatee P, Muller RH, Keck CM, Okonogi S (2013) Development of lycopene-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers: effect of rice oil and cholesterol. Pharmazie 68:723–731
Rigano L, Lionetti N (2016) Nanobiomaterials in galenic formulations and cosmetics. In: Grumezescu AM (ed) Nanobiomaterials in galenic formulations and cosmetics – applications of nanobiomaterials. Elsevier, Oxford, pp 121–148
Rivers JK (2008) The role of cosmeceuticals in antiaging therapy. Skin Therapy Lett 13:510
Rodríguez MIA, Barroso LGR, Sánchez ML (2018) Collagen: a review on its sources and potential cosmetic applications. J Cosmet Dermatol 17:20–26
Rondanelli M, Perna S, Peroni G, Guido D (2015) A bibliometric study of scientific literature in Scopus on botanicals for treatment of androgenetic alopecia. J Cosmet Dermatol 15:120–130
Saha R (2012) Cosmeceuticals and herbal drugs: practical uses. Int J Pharm Sci Res 3:59–65
Sandha GK, Swami VK (2009) Jojoba oil as an organic shelf stable standard oil-phase base for cosmetic industry. Rasayan J Chem 2:300–306
Sanguigno L, Minale M, Vannini E, Riccio GAR, Casapullo A, Monti MC, Riccio R, Formisano S, Renzo GD, Cuomo O (2015) Oligosaccharidic fractions derivedfrom Triticum vulgare extract accelerate tissue repairing processes in in vitro and in vivo models of skin lesions. J Ethnopharmacol 159:198–208
Saraf S, Chhabra SK, Kaur CD, Saraf S (2012) Development of photo-chemo protective herbs containing cosmetic formulations for improving skin properties. J Cosmet Sci 63:119–131
Sena LM, Zappelli C, Apone F, Barbulova A, Tito A, Leone A, Oliviero T, Ferracane R, Fogliano V, Colucci G (2018) Brassica rapa hairy root extracts promote skin depigmentation by modulating melanin production and distribution. J Cosmet Dermatol 17:246–257
Shin S, Lee J, Son D, Park D, Jung E (2017) Anti-Skin-Aging activity of a standardized extract from panax ginseng leaves in vitro and in human volunteer. Cosmetics 4:1–12
Shohael AM, Murthy HN, Paek KY (2014) Pilot-scale culture of somatic embryos of Eleutherococcus senticosus in airlift bioreactors for the production of eleutherosides. Biotechnol Lett 36:1727–1733
Siahaan EA, Pangestuti R, Munandar H, Kim SK (2017) Cosmeceuticals properties of sea cucumbers: prospects and trends. Cosmetics 4:26
Siriamornpun S, Kaisoon O, Meeso N (2012) Changes in colour, antioxidant activities and carotenoids (lycopene, β carotene, lutein) of marigold flower (Tagetes erecta L.) resulting from different drying processes. J Funct Foods 4:757–766
Smith WP (1996) Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. J Am Acad Dermatol 35:388–391
Solimine J, Garo E, Wedler J, Rusanov K, Fertig O, Hamburger M, Atanssov I, Butterweck V (2016) Tyrosinase inhibitory constituents from a polephenol enriched fraction of rose oil distillation wastewater. Fitoterapia 108:13–19
Soto ML, Falqué E, Domínguez H (2015) Relevance of natural phenolics from grape and derivative products in the formulation of cosmetics. Cosmetics 2:259–276
SpecialChem (2012). https://cosmetics.specialchem.com/news/product-news/emerge-labs-launches-stem-cell-acne-cream-to-reduce-inflammation%2D%2Dredness-on-skin; Accessed 18 May 2018
Srivastava S, Srivastava AK (2007) Hairy root culture for mass- production of high-value secondary metabolites. Crit Rev Biotechnol 27:29–43
Sumiyoshi M, Kimura Y (2009) Effects of a turmeric extract (Curcuma longa) on chronic ultraviolet B irradiation-induced skin damage in melanin-possessing hairless mice. Phytomedicine 16:1137–1143
Suwannateep N, Wanichwecharungruang S, Fluhr J, Patzelt A, Lademann J, Meinke MC (2013) Comparison of two encapsulated curcumin particular systems contained in different formulations with regard to in vitro skin penetration. Skin Res Technol 19:1–9
Tada H, Murakam Y, Omoto T, Shimomura K, Ishimaru K (1996) Rosmarinic acid and related phenolics in hairy root cultures of Ocimum basilicum. Phytochemistry 42:431–434
Takahashi T, Kamimura A, Yokoo Y, Honda S, Watanabe Y (2001) The first clinical trial of topical application of procyanidin B-2 to investigate its potential as a hair growing agent. Phytother Res 15:331–336
Thanh NT, Murthy HN, Paek KY (2014) Optimization of ginseng cell culture in airlift bioreactors and developing the large-scale production system. Ind Crop Prod 60:343–348
Thibault PK, Wlodarczyk J, Wenck A (1998) A double-blind randomized clinical trial on the effectiveness of a daily glycolic acid 5% formulation in the treatment of photoaging. Dermatol Surg 24:573–577
Tito A, Carola A, Bimonte M, Barbulova A, Arciello S, de Laurentiis F, Monoli I, Hill J, Gibertoni S, Colucci G, Apone F (2011) A tomato stem cell extract containing antioxidant compounds and metal chelating factors protects skin cells from heavy metal-induced damages. Int J Cosmet Sci 33:543–552
Tito A, Bimonte M, Carola A, De Lucia A, Barbulova A, Tortora A, Colucci G, Apone F (2015) An oil-soluble extract of Rubus idaeus cells enhances hydration and water homeostasis in skin cells. Int J Cosmet Sci 37:588–594
Tortora GJ, Grabowski SR (2013) Principles of anatomy and physiology, 14th edn. Wiley, New York, pp 110–150
Trehan S, Michniak-Kohn B, Beri K (2017) Plant stem cells in cosmetics: current trends and future directions. Future Sci OA 3:FSO226
Uhoda E, Pierard-Franchimont C, Petit L, Pierard GE (2005) Hydroxyacids. In: Elsner P, Maibach HI (eds) Cosmeceuticals and active cosmetics: drugs versus cosmetics, Cosmetics science and technology series. Taylor and Francis group, Boca Raton, pp 95–148
Upadhyay S, Ghosh AK, Singh V (2012) Hair growth promotant activity of petroleum ether root extractof Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (Fabaceae) in female rats. Trop J Pharm Res 11:753–758
Vañó-Galván S, Camacho F (2017) New treatments for hair loss. Actas Dermosifiliogr 108:221–228
Vera-Urbina JC, Selles-Marchart S, Martinez-Esteso MJ, Pedreno MA, Martinez RB (2013) Production of grapevine cell biomass (Vitis vinifera L. Gamay) and resveratrol in custom and commercial bioreactors using cyclodextrins and methyl-jasmonate elicitors. In: Delmas D (ed) Resveratrol: source, production, and health benefits. Nova Science Publishers Inc, New York, pp 19–40
Verma V, Gautam SP, Devi R, Singh N, Harjaskaran, Singh L (2016) Cosmeceuticals: acclaiming its most fascinating position in personal care industry. Ind Res J Pharm Sci 3:506–518
Vertuani S, Beghelli E, Scalambra E, Malisardi G, Copetti S, Toso RD, Baldisserotto A, Manfredini S (2011) Activity and stability studies of Verbascoside, a novel antioxidant, in dermo-cosmetic and pharmaceutical topical formulations. Molecules 16:7068–7080
Viinanen A, Salokannel M, Lammintausta K (2011) Gum Arabic as a cause of occupational allergy. J Allergy 2011:841508. https://doi.org/10.1155/2011/841508
Wang W, Li N, Luo M, Zu Y, Efferth T (2012) Antibacterial activity and anticancer activity of Rosmarinus officinalis L. essential oil compared to that of its main components. Molecules 17:2704–2713
Wang Z, Feng Y, Ma L, Li X, Ding W, Chen X (2017) Hair growth promoting effect of white wax and policosanol from white wax on the mouse model of testosterone-induced hair loss. Biomed Pharmacother 89:438–446
Werner S, Maschke RW, Eibl D, Eibl R (2017) Bioreactor technology for sustainable production of plant cell-derived products. In: Pavlov A, Bley T (eds) Bioprocessing of plant in vitro systems. Springer, Cham, pp 1–20
Wilson SA, Roberts SC (2012) Recent advances towards development and commercialization of plant cell culture processes for the synthesis of biomolecules. Plant Biotechnol J 10:249–268
Wink M, Alfermann AW, Franke R, Wetterauer B, Distl M, Windhövel J, Krohn O, Fuss E, Garden H, Mohagheghzadeh A, Wildi E, Ripplinger P (2005) Sustainable bioproduction of phytochemicals by plant in vitro cultures: anticancer agents. Plant Genet Resour 3:90–100
Wisniewski JD, Ellis DL, Lupo MP (2014) Facial rejuvenation: combining cosmeceuticals with cosmetic procedures. Cutis 94:122–126
Wu J, Zhong JJ (1999) Production of ginseng and its bioactive components in plant cell culture: current technological and applied aspects. J Biotechnol 68:89–99
Yamamoto H, Zhao P, Yakazi K, Inoue K (2002) Regulation of lithospermic acid B and shikonin production in Lithospermum erythrorhizon cell suspension cultures. Chem Pharm Bull 50:1086–1090
Yang Y, Ren C, Zhang Y, Wu XD (2017) Ginseng: an non-negligible natural remedy for healthy aging. Aging Dis 8:708–720
Yen GC, Duh PD, Chang DY (2000) Antioxidant activity of anthraquinones and anthrone. Food Chem 70:437–441
Yokoyama M, Yanaigi M (1991) In: Komamine A, Misawa M, Dilosmo F (eds) Plant cell cultures in Japan. CMC Co., Tokyo, pp 79–91
Yutani R, Teraoka R, Kitagawa S (2015) Microemulsion using polyoxyethylene sorbitan trioleate and its usage for skin delivery of resveratrol to protect skin against UV-induced damage. Chem Pharm Bull 63:741–745
Zappelli C, Barbulova A, Apone F, Colucci G (2016) Effective active ingredients obtained through biotechnology. Cosmetics 3:39
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2019 Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Mahesh, S.K., Fathima, J., Veena, V.G. (2019). Cosmetic Potential of Natural Products: Industrial Applications. In: Swamy, M., Akhtar, M. (eds) Natural Bio-active Compounds. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-7205-6_10
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-7205-6_10
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Singapore
Print ISBN: 978-981-13-7204-9
Online ISBN: 978-981-13-7205-6
eBook Packages: Biomedical and Life SciencesBiomedical and Life Sciences (R0)