Hostname: page-component-76fb5796d-vfjqv Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-04-25T22:53:32.183Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Weakly turbulent laws of wind-wave growth

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  30 October 2007

SERGEI I. BADULIN
Affiliation:
P. P. Shirshov Institute of Oceanology of Russian Academy of Sciences Moscow, Russia
ALEXANDER V. BABANIN
Affiliation:
Swinburne University of Technology, Melbourne, Australia
VLADIMIR E. ZAKHAROV
Affiliation:
Waves and Solitons LLC, Phoenix, Arizona, USA P. N. Lebedev Physical Institute of Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow, Russia University of Arizona, Tuscon, USA
DONALD RESIO
Affiliation:
Waterways Experiment Station, USA, Vicksburg, Massachusetts, USA

Abstract

The theory of weak turbulence developed for wind-driven waves in theoretical works and in recent extensive numerical studies concludes that non-dimensional features of self-similar wave growth (i.e. wave energy and characteristic frequency) have to be scaled by internal wave-field properties (fluxes of energy, momentum or wave action) rather than by external attributes (e.g. wind speed) which have been widely adopted since the 1960s. Based on the hypothesis of dominant nonlinear transfer, an asymptotic weakly turbulent relation for the total energy ϵ and a characteristic wave frequency ω* was derived The self-similarity parameter αss was found in the numerical duration-limited experiments and was shown to be naturally varying in a relatively narrow range, being dependent on the energy growth rate only.

In this work, the analytical and numerical conclusions are further verified by means of known field dependencies for wave energy growth and peak frequency downshift. A comprehensive set of more than 20 such dependencies, obtained over almost 50 years of field observations, is analysed. The estimates give αss very close to the numerical values. They demonstrate that the weakly turbulent law has a general value and describes the wave evolution well, apart from the earliest and full wave development stages when nonlinear transfer competes with wave input and dissipation.

Type
Papers
Copyright
Copyright © Cambridge University Press 2007

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

REFERENCES

Abdalla, S. & Cavaleri, L. 2002 Effects of wind variability and variable air density on wave modeling. J. Geophys. Res. 107 (C7), doi:10.1029/2000JC000639.Google Scholar
Babanin, A. N. & Soloviev, Y. P. 1998 a Field investigation of transformation of the wind wave frequency spectrum with fetch and the stage of development. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 28, 563576.2.0.CO;2>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Babanin, A. N. & Soloviev, Y. P. 1998 b Variability of directional spectra of wind-generated waves, studied by means of wave staff arrays. Mar. Freshwater Res. 49, 89101.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Badulin, S. I., Pushkarev, A. N., Resio, D. & Zakha rov, V. E. 2005 a Self-similar solutions of the Hasselmann equation and experimental scaling of wind-wave spectra. In Frontiers of Nonlinear Physics. Proc. 2nd Intl Conf. pp. 191–196.Google Scholar
Badulin, S. I., Pushkarev, A. N., Resio, D. & Zakharov, V. E. 2005 b Self-similarity of wind-driven seas. Nonlinear Proc. Geophys. 12, 891946.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Badulin, S. I., Babanin, A. V., Pushkarev, A. N., Resio, D. & Za kha rov, V. E. 2006 Flux balance and self-similar laws of wind wave growth. In 9th International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Forecastring. http://www.oceanweather.com/waveworkshop/9thWaves/Papers/Badulin.pdf.Google Scholar
Belberov, Z. K., Zhurbas, V. M., Zaslavski, M. M. & Lobisheva, L. G. 1983 Integral characteristics of wind wave frequency spectra. In Interaction of Atmosphere, Hydrosphere and Lithosphere in Near-Shore Zone of the Sea (ed. Belberov, Z., Zakhariev, V., Kuznetsov, O., Pykhov, N., Filyushkin, B. & Zaslavskii, M.), pp. 143154. Bulgarian Academy of Science Press (in Russian).Google Scholar
CERC 1977 Shore Protection Manual, vol. 3. U S Army Coastal Engineering Research Center.Google Scholar
Davidan, I. N. 1980 Investigation of wave probability structure on field data. Trudi GOIN 151, 826 (in Russian).Google Scholar
Davidan, I. N. 1995 Problems of observations and mathematical modeling of wind waves. St-Petersburg, Meteoizdat (in Russian).Google Scholar
Davidan, I. N. 1996 New results in wind-wave studies. Russian Met. Hydrol. 4, 4249 (in Russian).Google Scholar
Dobson, F., Perrie, W. & Toulany, B. 1989 On the deep water fetch laws for wind-generated surface gravity waves. Atmos. Ocean 27, 210236.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Donelan, M. A. & Pierson, W. J. jr, 1987 Radar scattering and equilibrium ranges in wind-generated waves with application to scatterometry. J. Geophys. Res. 92 (C5), 49715029.Google Scholar
Donelan, M. A., Hamilton, J. & Hui, W. H. 1985 Directional spectra of wind-generated waves. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Lond. A 315, 509562.Google Scholar
Donelan, M., Skafel, M., Graber, H., Liu, P., Schwab, D. & Venkatesh, S. 1992 On the growth rate of wind-generated waves. Atmos. Ocean 30, 457478.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Donelan, M. A., Dobson, F. W., Smith, S. D. & Anderson, R. J. 1993 On the dependence of sea surface roughness on wave development. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 23, 21432149.2.0.CO;2>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Donelan, M. A., Babanin, A. V., Young, I. R., Banner, M. L. & McCormick, C. 2005 Wave follower field measurements of the wind input spectral function. Part I. Measurements and calibrations. J. Atmos. Ocean Technol. 22, 799813.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Donelan, M. A., Babanin, A. V., Young, I. R. & Banner, M. L. 2006 Wave-follower field measurements of the wind-input spectral function. Part II: Parameterization of the wind input. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 36, 16721679.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Efimov, V. V., Krivinski, B. B. & Soloviev, Y. P. 1986 Study of the energetic sea wind waves fetch dependence. Meteorologiya i Gidrologiya 11, 6875 (in Russian).Google Scholar
Evans, K. C. & Kibblewhite, A. C. 1990 An examination of fetch-limited wave growth off the West coast of New Zealand by a comparison with the JONSWAP results. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 20, 12781296.2.0.CO;2>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Geogjaev, V. V. & Zakharov, V. E. 2007 Hasselmann equation revisited. In preparation.Google Scholar
Goda, Y. 2003 Revisiting Wilson's formulas for simplified wind-wave prediction. J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Engng 129 (2), 9395.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Hasselmann, K. 1962 On the nonlinear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum. Part 1. General theory. J. Fluid Mech. 12, 481500.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Hasselmann, K. 1963 a On the nonlinear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum. Part 2. Conservation theorems; wave-particle analogy; irreversibility. J. Fluid Mech. 15, 273281.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Hasselmann, K. 1963 b On the nonlinear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum. Part 3. Evaluation of the energy flux and swell-sea interaction for a Neumann spectrum. J. Fluid Mech. 15, 385398.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Hasselmann, K., Barnett, T. P., Bouws, E., Carlson, H., Cartwright, D. E., Enke, K., Ewing, J. A., Gienapp, H., Hasselmann, D. E., Kruseman, P., Meerburg, A., Muller, P., Olbers, D. J., Richter, K., Sell, W. & Walden, H. 1973 Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP). Deutsch. Hydrograph. Z. Suppl. 12 (A8).Google Scholar
Hsiao, S. V. & Shemdin, O. H. 1983 Measurements of wind velocity and pressure with a wave follower during MARSEN. J. Geophys. Res. 88 (C14), 98419849.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Hwang, P. A. 2006 Duration and fetch-limited growth functions of wind-generated waves parameterized with three different scaling wind velocities. J. Geophys. Res. 111 (C02005), doi:10.1029/2005JC003180.Google Scholar
Hwang, P. A. & Wang, D. W. 2004 Field measurements of duration-limited growth of wind-generated ocean surface waves at young stage of development. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 34, 23162326.2.0.CO;2>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Janssen, P. A. E. M., Komen, G. J. & Voogt, W. J. P. 1984 An operational coupled hybrid wave prediction model. J. Geophys. Res. 89, 36353654.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Kahma, K. K. 1981 A study of the growth of the wave spectrum with fetch. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 11, 15031515.2.0.CO;2>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Kahma, K. K. 1986 On prediction of the fetch-limited wave spectrum in a steady wind. Finn. Marine Res. 253, 5278.Google Scholar
Kahma, K. K. & Calkoen, C. J. 1992 Reconciling discrepancies in the observed growth of wind-generated waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 22, 13891405.2.0.CO;2>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Kahma, K. K. & Pettersson, H. 1994 Wave growth in a narrow fetch geometry. Global Atmos. Ocean Syst. 2, 253263.Google Scholar
Kitaigorodskii, S. A. 1962 Applications of the theory of similarity to the analysis of wind-generated wave motion as a stochastic process. Bull. Acad. Sci. USSR, Geophys. Ser. Engl. Transl. N1, 105117.Google Scholar
Kitaigorodskii, S. A. 1983 On the theory of the equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated gravity waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 13, 816827.2.0.CO;2>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Lavrenov, I., Resio, D. & Zakharov, V. 2002 Numerical simulation of weak turbulent Kolmogorov spectrum in water surface waves. In 7th Intl Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting, Banff, October 2002, pp. 104–116.Google Scholar
Lavrenov, I. V. 2003 Wind Waves in Ocean. Physics and Numerical Simulation. Springer.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Liu, P. C. & Ross, D. B. 1980 Airborne measurements of wave growth for stable and unstable atmospheres in lake Michigan. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 10, 18421853.2.0.CO;2>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Mitsuyasu, H., Nakamura, R. & Komori, T. 1971 Observations of the wind and waves in Hakata Bay. Rep. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech. Kyushu University 19, 3774.Google Scholar
Mitsuyasu, H., Tasai, H., Suhara, F., Mizuno, T., Honda, S. O. T. & Rikiishi, K. 1982 Observation of power spectrum of ocean waves using a clover-leaf buoy. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 10, 286296.2.0.CO;2>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Pettersson, H. 2004 Wave growth in a narrow bay. PhD thesis, University of Helsinki, [ISBN 951-53-2589-7 (Paperback) ISBN 952-10-1767-8 (PDF)].Google Scholar
Phillips, O. M. 1977 The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean. Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Phillips, O. M. 1985 Spectral and statistical properties of the equilibrium range in wind-generated gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 156, 505531.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Plant, W. J. 1982 A relationship between wind stress and wave slope. J. Geophys. Res. 87 (C3), 19611967.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Pushkarev, A. N., Resio, D. & Zakharov, V. E. 2003 Weak turbulent theory of the wind-generated gravity sea waves. Physica D: Nonlin. Phenom. 184, 2963.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Pushkarev, A. N., Resio, D. & Zakharov, V. E. 2004 Second generation diffusion model of interacting gravity waves on the surface of deep water. Nonlinear Proc. Geophys. 11, 329342, sRef-ID: 1607-7946/npg/2004-11-329.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Resio, D. T., Long, C. E. & Vincent, C. L. 2004 Equilibrium-range constant in wind-generated wave spectra. J. Geophys. Res. 109 (C01018), doi:1029/2003JC001788.Google Scholar
Ross, D. B. 1978 On the use of aircraft in the observation of one- and two-dimensional ocean wave spectra. In Ocean Wave Climate (ed. Earle, M. D. & Malahoff, A.), pp. 253267. Plenum.Google Scholar
Sanders, J. W. 1976 A growth-stage scaling model for the wind-driven sea. Ocean Dyn. 29, 136161.Google Scholar
Snyder, R. L., Dobson, F. W., Elliot, J. A. & Long, R. B. 1981 Array measurements of atmospheric pressure fluctuations above surface gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 102, 159.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Stewart, R. W. 1974 The air–sea momentum exchange. Boundary-Layer Met. 6, 151167.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Toba, Y. 1972 Local balance in the air–sea boundary processes. I. On the growth process of wind waves. J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan 28, 109121.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Toba, Y. 1973 a Local balance in the air–sea boundary processes. II. Partition of wind stress to waves and current. J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan 29, 7075.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Toba, Y. 1973 b Local balance in the air–sea boundary processes. III. On the spectrum of wind waves. J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan 29, 209220.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Toba, Y. 1997 Wind-wave strong wave interactions and quasi-local equilibrium between wind and wind sea with the friction velocity proportionality. In Nonlinear Ocean Waves (ed. Perrie, W.), Advances in Fluid Mechanics, vol. 17, pp. 1–59. Computational Mechanics.Google Scholar
Walsh, E. J., Hancock III, D. W., Hines, D. E., Swift, R. N. & Scott, J. F. 1989 An observation of the directional wave spectrum evolution from shoreline to fully developed. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 19, 12881295.2.0.CO;2>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Webb, D. J. 1978 Non-linear transfers between sea waves. Deep-Sea Res. 25, 279298.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Wen, S. C., Zhang, D., Peifang, G. & Bohai, C. 1989 Parameters in wind-wave frequency spectra and their bearings on spectrum forms and growth. Acta Oceanol. Sin. 8, 1539.Google Scholar
Wen, S.-C., Guo, P.-F., Zhang, D.-C., Guan, C.-L. & Zhan, H.-G. 1993 Analytically derived wind-wave directional spectrum. Part 2. Characteristics, comparison and verification of spectrum. J. Oceanogr. 49 (2), 149172.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Young, I. R. 1999 Wind Generated Ocean Waves. Elsevier.Google Scholar
Zakharov, V. E. 1966 Problems of the theory of nonlinear surface waves. PhD thesis, Budker Institute for Nuclear Physics, Novosibirsk, USSR (in Russian).Google Scholar
Zakharov, V. E. 1992 Direct and inverse cascade in wind-driven sea and wave breaking. In Proc. IUTAM Meeting on Wave Breaking (Sydney, 1991) (ed. Banner, M. L. & Grimshaw, R.), pp. 6991. Springer.Google Scholar
Zakharov, V. E. 1999 Statistical theory of gravity and capillary waves on the surface of a finite-depth fluid. Eur. J. Mech. B/Fluids 18, 327344.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Zakharov, V. E. 2005 a Direct and inverse cascades in the wind-driven sea. In AGU Geophys. Monograph, pp. 1–9. Miami.Google Scholar
Zakharov, V. E. 2005 b Theoretical interpretation of fetch limited wind-driven sea observations. Nonlinear Proc. Geophys. 12, 10111020.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Zakharov, V. E. & Filonenko, N. N. 1966 Energy spectrum for stochastic oscillations of the surface of a fluid. Sov. Phys. Dokl. 160, 12921295.Google Scholar
Zakharov, V. E. & Pushkarev, A. N. 1999 Diffusion model of interacting gravity waves on the surface of deep fluid. Nonlinear Proc. Geophys. 6, 110.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Zakharov, V. E. & Zaslavsky, M. M. 1982 The kinetic equation and Kolmogorov spectra in the weak-turbulence theory of wind waves. Izv. Atmos. Ocean. Phys. 18, 747753.Google Scholar
Zakharov, V. E. & Zaslavsky, M. M. 1983 Dependence of wave parameters on the wind velocity, duration of its action and fetch in the weak-turbulence theory of water waves. Izv. Atmos. Ocean. Phys. 19, 300306.Google Scholar
Zakharov, V. E., Falkovich, G. & Lvov, V. 1992 Kolmogorov Spectra of Turbulence. Part 1. Springer.CrossRefGoogle Scholar