Statistical Properties of Directional Ocean Waves: The Role of the Modulational Instability in the Formation of Extreme Events

M. Onorato, T. Waseda, A. Toffoli, L. Cavaleri, O. Gramstad, P. A. E. M. Janssen, T. Kinoshita, J. Monbaliu, N. Mori, A. R. Osborne, M. Serio, C. T. Stansberg, H. Tamura, and K. Trulsen
Phys. Rev. Lett. 102, 114502 – Published 20 March 2009

Abstract

We discuss two independent, large scale experiments performed in two wave basins of different dimensions in which the statistics of the surface wave elevation are addressed. Both facilities are equipped with a wave maker capable of generating waves with prescribed frequency and directional properties. The experimental results show that the probability of the formation of large amplitude waves strongly depends on the directional properties of the waves. Sea states characterized by long-crested and steep waves are more likely to be populated by freak waves with respect to those characterized by a large directional spreading.

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  • Received 5 November 2008

DOI:https://doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevLett.102.114502

©2009 American Physical Society

Authors & Affiliations

M. Onorato1, T. Waseda2, A. Toffoli3, L. Cavaleri4, O. Gramstad5, P. A. E. M. Janssen6, T. Kinoshita7, J. Monbaliu8, N. Mori9, A. R. Osborne1, M. Serio1, C. T. Stansberg10, H. Tamura11, and K. Trulsen5

  • 1Dipartimento di Fisica Generale, Università di Torino, Via P. Giuria, 1-Torino, 10125, Italy
  • 2Department of Ocean Technology Policy and Environment, University of Tokyo, 277-8563 Japan
  • 3Det Norske Veritas, Veritasveien 1, Høvik, N-1322, Norway
  • 4ISMAR, Castello 1364/A, 30122 Venezia, Italy
  • 5Department of Mathematics, University of Oslo, P.O. Box 1053 Blindern, NO-0316 Oslo, Norway
  • 6ECMWF, Shinfield Park, Reading, United Kingdom
  • 7Institute of Industrial Science, the University of Tokyo, 153-8505, Japan
  • 8K.U. Leuven, Kasteelpark Arenberg 40, 3001 Heverlee, Belgium
  • 9D.P.R.I., Kyoto University, Kyoto 611-0011, Japan
  • 10Norwegian Marine Technology Research Institute A.S (Marintek), P.O. Box 4125 Valentinlyst, N-7450 Trondheim, Norway
  • 11Frontier Research Center for Global Change JAMSTEC Kanagawa 236-0001, Japan

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Issue

Vol. 102, Iss. 11 — 20 March 2009

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