Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Anti-aging and Anti-melanogenesis Effect of Cimicifuge dahurica, Coptis chinensis, Phellodendri amurense and Magnol obovata Extracts Mixture

승마, 황련, 황백, 후박 추출 혼합물의 항노화 및 멜라닌 생성 저해효과

  • Received : 2016.09.09
  • Accepted : 2017.02.15
  • Published : 2017.03.31
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Abstract

Cimicifuge dahurica (C. dahurica), Coptis chinensis (C. chinensis) and Phellodendri amurense (P. amurense) extracts has an detoxification effect and Magnol obovata bark (M. obovata) extracts has an antibacterial effect in oriental medicine. This study investigated the possibility of the extract mixture as a functional cosmetic ingredient by mixing C. dahurica, C. chinensis, P. amurense and M. obovata extracts. MTT assay was carried out for toxicity test and DPPH/ABTS experiments for antioxidant effects of the extract mixture. Results show that the extract mixture was safer and antioxidant effects in a dose-dependent manner than single extract of the mixture. The mixture effectively inhibited NO (nitric oxide) production, which indicate good efficacy for anti-inflammation. The mixture also protected UVB-induced cell damage and increased type 1 pro-collagen synthesis in fibroblast. In addition, it's treatment inhibited the melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity by lowering expression of MITF, tyrosinase and TRPs in B16F10 melanoma cell. These results suggest that medicinal herbal extract mixture may be useful as a functional ingredient for anti-aging and skin whitening cosmetic formula.

한의학에서 승마(Cimicifuge dahurica, C. dahurica), 황련(Coptis chinensis, C. chinensis), 황백(Phellodendri amurense, P. amurense) 추출물은 해독작용을 하며 후박(Magnol obovata, M. obovata) 추출물은 항균 효과가 있다고 알려져 있다. 본 연구에서는 승마, 황련, 황백, 후박 추출물을 혼합하여 기능성 화장품 소재로써의 이용 가능성을 검토하였다. MTT assay를 이용한 세포 독성평가와 DPPH와 ABTS를 이용한 항산화 효과를 측정한 결과, 단일 추출물보다 추출혼합물이 더 안전함을 확인 하였으며 농도 의존적으로 항산화 활성이 증가됨을 확인하였다. 뿐만 아니라 NO 생성을 억제함으로써 우수한 항염증 효과가 있을 것으로 예상되며, 섬유아세포에서 UVB로 유도된 세포 손상을 보호하면서 type 1 pro-collagen 합성량이 증가되는 것을 관찰하였다. 또한 추출 혼합물은 melanin 합성과 tyrosinase 활성 및 melanin 합성 관련 인자 및 효소들(MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2)의 발현을 효과적으로 억제하였다. 이러한 연구결과로 보아 승마, 황련, 황백, 후박 추출 혼합물은 항노화 및 미백 등 기능성 화장품 소재로써 개발 가능성이 높을 것으로 사료된다.

Keywords

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