Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Development of an In Vitro Pigmented Skin Model to Evaluate the Effectiveness of Whitening Functional Cosmetic Ingredients

미백 기능성 화장품 원료의 유효성 평가를 위한 In Vitro 색소화피부모델 개발

  • 김설영 ((주)바이오솔루션 부설연구소) ;
  • 이건희 ((주)바이오솔루션 부설연구소) ;
  • 곽은지 ((주)바이오솔루션 부설연구소) ;
  • 김수지 ((주)바이오솔루션 부설연구소) ;
  • 이수현 ((주)바이오솔루션 부설연구소) ;
  • 임경민 (이화여자대학교 약학대학)
  • Received : 2021.11.12
  • Accepted : 2021.12.24
  • Published : 2021.12.30
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Abstract

In this study, we prepared a pigmented skin model, KeraSkin-MTM for the in vitro evaluation of whitening agents. For the purpose of complementing the existing mono-layer cell culture testing method, KeraSkin-MTM was produced through the co-culture of human skin-derived keratinocytes and melanocytes. The efficacy of four well-known whitening agents (arbutin, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, niacinamide) was evaluated in KeraSkin-MTM in order to assess its usefulness in assessing whitening efficacy. As a result, it was possible to observe additional details such as the distribution of melanin granules and melanin capping in each skin layer through KeraSkin-MTM, which was previously difficult to assess in the traditional 2D cell culture system. In addition, quantification through image analysis of KeraSkin-MTM allowed for a statistical analysis of the whitening effects. These results suggest that the KeraSkin-MTM can be used as a new evaluation method of evaluating whitening efficacy, as well as complement the traditional total melanin content and tyrosinase inhibition assays.

본 연구에서는 미백 기능성 화장품 및 원료의 효능을 평가하는 동물대체시험법을 개발하기 위하여 세포수준과 색소화피부모델(KeraSkin-MTM)에서 기존에 잘 알려진 4종의 미백기능성원료(arbutin, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, niacinamide)의 효능을 평가하였다. 특히 기존 시험법의 보완을 위해 인체피부유래 케라틴세포와 멜라닌세포를 혼합하고 공배양하여 색소화피부모델을 제작하였다. 그 결과 색소화피부모델을 이용하여 미백효능을 평가함으로써 세포수준에서는 확인이 어려웠던 각 피부세포층에 따른 멜라닌 과립과 멜라닌캡(melanin cap)의 분포 등의 지표들을 추가로 확인할 수 있었으며 이미지분석을 통한 정량화로 음성대조군 대비 통계적 유의성을 확인할 수 있었다. 이러한 결과는 KeraSkin-MTM을 이용한 미백효능평가법이 기존에 사용하던 총멜라닌함량와 타이로시나아제 저해 평가를 보완할 수 있는 새로운 평가법으로 사용할 수 있음을 시사한다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

본 연구는 한국보건산업진흥원의 피부과학 응용소재·선도기술개발 연구과제(과제번호: HP20C0061020021)로 진행되었습니다.

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